As we eased our craft into the water, I thought about the slow pace of the river and how it belied the thrills awaiting us downstream. Our welcoming party at the Potash boat ramp consisted of mosquito swarms and the sun bursting through cloud cover. The biting insects and imminent desert heat had me eager to get out on the mighty Colorado. With only one day to cover nearly a hundred miles of river, we wasted no time launching. Cataract Canyon, with all its danger and beauty, awaited us.

The Colorado ran red, filled with sediment washed in by the previous night’s thunderstorm. The hue of the placid water matched the cliffs towering above us. The invasive tamarisk dominating the banks created a strip of green starkly contrasting the rust-colored surroundings. When the cliffs of Dead Horse Point came into view two thousand feet above us, our guide cut the motor. In the newfound silence, we enjoyed some strawberries and orange juice while soaking in the scenery. The guide, Dave, explained the state park’s morbid history and identified the point where Thelma and Louise took their fateful leap. The Coffee Pot Ruin, an ancient granary tucked into the horizontal crack jutting across a rock tower, was another notable landmark. We cruised through the winding flat water in Navtec’s Rigid Hull Inflatable Boat, a craft specially designed to navigate extreme whitewater. Continuing down Meander Canyon, we drew closer to the heart of Canyonlands.

The center of Canyonlands is marked by the meeting place of the Green and Colorado Rivers. Below the Confluence, the combined force of the rivers is funneled into Cataract’s narrow gorge and the result is some of the country’s most intense rapids. Just downstream, orange and white spires peeked above the canyon walls. In 1869, John Wesley Powell named the strange, colorful pinnacles the Doll House.

We passed Spanish Bottom and the standing waves of Brown Betty marked the beginning of Cataract Canyon proper. We ran the first chute and stopped at the inviting beach. A satisfying lunch was needed before we tackled the far more technical rapids that lay ahead. Capsize, Hell to Pay, and the North Seas soaked us in rapid succession. Throughout the Mile Long Rapids, our boat’s passengers screeched in glee and terror each time we dipped into a trough and saw a massive white cap about to come crashing over us.

Lake Cataract’s flat water allowed for a pleasant respite from the relentless rapids. Some took the opportunity to go for a refreshing swim. We drifted by a beach claimed by the river’s majestic sentries, great blue herons. As we marveled at the rookery and its nest-filled trees, one heron stood alert on the sand, a few flapped languidly over the water, and others waded in search of a meal. Soon, the roar of rapids came into earshot and we dove headlong into the canyon’s most intimidating waves.

Cataract Canyon’s iconic Big Drops were before us and charging downhill into the roiling waters was our only option. Big Drop I was just a taste; Big Drop II, or Little Niagra, provided a meatier challenge. Dave deftly maneuvered by boulders and gaping holes threatening to swallow the boat. At the top of Big Drop III, Satan’s Gut, I grew tense. Even though the river level had passed its peak flow, the raging white caps were still a striking sight. The largest wave we hit smashed into me like a translucent avalanche and it was all I could do to hold on and stay in the boat.

Beyond Gypsum Rapid, the final thrill, the river returned to its mellow state. We were able to unclench our hands from around the rope and appreciate the magnificent backdrop once again. On the bank, we saw some desert big horn sheep making their way back to the cliffs.

We passed Dark Canyon and the bridge came into view, so I knew the trip was drawing to a close. The sun dried our dripping clothes and we couldn’t wipe the smiles from our faces. Looking at the waters gently widening into Lake Powell, it was hard to imagine we had just come through such a perilous stretch of river. That said, it would be impossible to forget the awesome waves of Cataract Canyon.

If you are considering an overnight or daily river trip, come in and talk with us. Navtec has over 100 years of guiding and river knowledge to make your trip a one-of-a-kind experience.