HIKING HAPPENINGS - August 2024

It gets pretty hot around here in late summer. Almost too hot for vigorous hiking. But, if you hike like a Moab local, arriving super-early at a trailhead, you can still enjoy some of our most iconic trails in relative comfort. How early? I’m at the Moab Rim Trailhead on this particular weekday morning at 6 a.m. It’s 66 degrees. Photo-tour guides and mountain bikers tell me they often like to arrive at trailheads on summer mornings when it’s still a bit dark. For this west-facing trail, starting very early is the ticket to a grand experience in complete shade. The route skirts the Behind the Rocks Wilderness Study Area and tops out at an overlook of the Moab Valley.

In my pack, I bring snacks, a liter of water, and a liter of limeade. Eating breakfast, especially a long, lingering, restaurant breakfast before a hike delays my start time. Besides, I prefer not to hike on a full stomach anyway. Especially a hike as aerobic as this one. The Moab Rim Trail cardio exercise opens out at the top to a stunning panorama of our valley intersected by the glorious Colorado River. To the north lies Arches National Park, to the east is Sand Flats Recreation Area and the La Sal Mountains, and to the west (across the Colorado River) and up a cliff, Little Arch winks at you. Though the overlook is billed as a great view of the city and valley of Moab (intensely green this time of year), the most gorgeous spectacle is really to the south. The Colorado River riparian corridor of emerald islands, grassy bends, and somber, slow-moving silverness is just stunning. This is one serious river, the fifth longest in the United States.

Rated as a moderate to difficult hike—and known locally as Moab’s StairMaster—the Moab Rim Trail goes up about 1,000 feet in about a mile. But there’s no need to power walk up this thing. Watch your foot placements, take breaks, and stay well away from the cliff edges, especially if there have been recent rains. You can eyeball the Colorado River from many parts of the route, following the painted white dashes (looking a little scuffed-up these days) and scrapes and tire marks on the rocks. This is a multi-use trail, and, if you do encounter articulated off-road vehicles creeping their way up, the trail corridor is usually wide enough for you to go around. In the past, I’ve enjoyed watching these great mantis-like contraptions navigate the Kayenta sandstone ledges, ramps, and slabs. On this particular morning’s two-hour hike, I only encounter four women hiking plus one very good dog. After I take my photos at the top, I turn around and start picking my way back.

Best route to this trailhead at present: Take 400 North west from Main Street to 500 West, turn left (south), and proceed to the T intersection of Kane Creek Boulevard, then turn right.

A rougher alternative with possible delays: go west on Kane Creek Boulevard from Main Street at the McDonald’s. Carefully follow the signs and restrictions set up for renovation and widening of this road. From the stop sign at Kane Creek and 500 West, take Kane Creek for another two miles. You’ll follow the Colorado River downstream on your right. Look for the parking lot and a one-seater toilet on the left. The trail starts to the left (north) of the lot.

My downclimb back to the bottom is pretty challenging as I work those quads. And the hamstrings, calves, and glutes for that matter. Not for the faint of legs! But the rock slabs are still all in shade, so I take my time. Once back down, I sign out on the register, check my car’s thermometer (it shows 75 degrees), then drive back north along the river into town, a canyon wren’s bright, cascading notes calling farewell. With plans for a long, lingering, restaurant breakfast on my mind.